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A magnum of Clos Ostler Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2021 beside its wooden presentation box.

Time in the Waitaki Valley

Oct 7
3 min read

Updated: 4 days ago

A magnum of Clos Ostler Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2021 beside its wooden presentation box.

The autumn-leaf character of Caroline’s 2018 belongs to a different moment in the wine’s life from the rose and red-fruit perfume recorded in its early reviews. Returning to a vineyard through its bottles makes those changes tangible. The same wine can reveal new detail with age, while the seasons remain recognisably different.

Caroline’s 2018, 2020, 2021 and 2022 form the provisional sequence for a future vertical at Clos Ostler. Bringing those years together would give us a closer view of one North Otago limestone vineyard through time. The final selection will depend on the bottles available and their condition. For now, the wines’ dated reviews and our own recent observations give that future tasting a substantial starting point.

One vineyard through successive seasons

Caroline’s brings together the estate’s five Pinot Noir clones. Following this cuvée holds the vineyard identity in view while the year changes. The result is still more than a record of weather. Picking decisions, the composition of the blend and the wine’s maturation also belong to each release, alongside the years subsequently spent in bottle.

Cameron Douglas MS reviewed each of these vintages at a different point in its development. His assessments preserve impressions of their earlier lives, including a view of how long they might develop. Read beside our more recent estate notes, they allow the history to accumulate without turning a young wine’s description into a claim about how every bottle tastes today.

2018, floral detail and chalky texture

On 22 May 2021, Douglas awarded Caroline’s 2018 96 points. He described floral and red-fruit aromas, a chalk-like tannin texture and lively acidity, with a drinking window extending from then to 2026 and beyond. In more recent bottles opened at the estate, an autumn-leaf character has become particularly appealing. The older review and the later observation belong to different stages of the same vintage.

2020, fruit and the shape of the palate

Douglas’s review published on 15 September 2023 gave Caroline’s 2020 95 points and a suggested window of 2025 to 2035. Red berries, polished tannin and refinement were central to his account. In our recent bottles, the herbal character feels fresher than in the older wines. Fruit, herbs and texture remain intertwined, with the wine still offering considerable interest ahead of it.

2021, darker fruit and an herbal thread

On 19 March 2024, Douglas awarded Caroline’s 2021 96 points, recording dark fruit, dried raspberry, sage and thyme within a tightly drawn structure. His suggested window ran from 2028 to 2038 and beyond. Dried sage and thyme have also appeared in our subsequent estate tastings. The vintage later won the New Zealand Red Trophy, New Zealand Pinot Noir Trophy and North Otago Pinot Noir Trophy at the International Wine Challenge 2025.

2022, fruit held within a youthful structure

Douglas’s 28 April 2025 review awarded Caroline’s 2022 94 points and suggested 2028 to 2034 and beyond. He emphasised youthful fruit, fine tannin and acidity. Our later estate observations bring another perspective, with sorrel, mint and tarragon, a lifted fig-leaf character and rose petals. These herbal and floral details make the 2022 a particularly interesting younger counterpart to the more developed wines.

Season and time in bottle

The 2018 has four more years since harvest than the 2022. A comparison therefore brings together the effects of different seasons and different amounts of time in bottle. The estate’s recent account of wines from 2009 to 2024 gives this proposed vertical a wider setting, from black truffle in older Caroline’s to fresher herbs in younger releases.

A later tasting of the same vintages would add another layer to the record. The pleasure lies in following the changing relationship between perfume, fruit and texture, rather than expecting each bottle to reach the same point at the same age. Douglas’s different drinking windows express that distinction particularly clearly. They are individual assessments of potential, not fixed appointments for opening a bottle.

Caroline’s as the centre of the vertical

EOS would offer a distinct supplementary comparison, showing another selection from the same estate. It would not become another vintage in the Caroline’s vertical. Keeping the two enquiries separate preserves what makes each absorbing, the evolution of Caroline’s across years and the different expression of one season through the estate’s selections.

Further perspectives

 
 
 

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