Clos Ostler Through Time from 2009 to 2024

By Connor Roulet Magides

Returning to older bottles gives me a different understanding of our vineyard. The fruit changes, the texture softens, and aromas that once sat quietly behind everything else become more expressive. Across these tastings, what has stayed with me is the herbal character running through the wines, from autumn leaves and black truffle in the older Caroline’s to fresh herbs, rose and violet in the younger releases.

These are personal observations from bottles opened over time. Each has offered another glimpse of the vineyard, and of how differently its character can emerge with age.

Caroline’s, with time

Black truffle was particularly striking in the 2009 Caroline’s. Alongside it came autumn leaves, dried herbs and raspberry compote, creating a deeply savoury impression. The 2010 also carried that truffle character, with dried raspberry and herbs giving the fruit another dimension.

There is something absorbing about returning to these wines. The pleasure comes partly from recognising familiar qualities, then discovering how far they have developed since the last bottle.

In the 2015 and 2016, beautiful concentration accompanied an emerging autumn-leaf character. Dried raspberry and dried black plum formed part of that impression, with herbal complexity becoming increasingly expressive around the fruit. The 2018 carried that lovely autumn-leaf note too, connecting it with the older wines while retaining its own expression.

I find this continuity particularly interesting. Individual bottles differ, but certain aromas return often enough that they become part of how I recognise Caroline’s.

The changing expression of herbs

Moving towards the younger vintages, the herbs began to feel fresher. That was apparent in the 2020 Caroline’s, while the 2021 showed dried sage and thyme beginning to emerge.

My fuller tasting note for Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2022 describes it as lifted and enticing, with crushed rose petals, sorrel, crushed mint and lemon thyme, alongside the brambly scent of blackberry bushes and thorns. Red cherry meets plum poised between red and black, with a delicate floral, almost vanilla-orchid perfume. Lemongrass and finger lime bring a bright citrus lift.

Vibrant acidity reflects the very cool vintage, carried by fine-grained, chalky tannins with more grip than EOS. An oyster-shell salinity gives the wine a distinctive crunch, carrying into an exceptionally long finish.

Age and vintage overlap here. These bottles cannot tell us precisely how much of each difference comes from the season and how much comes from time in bottle. Returning to them over the coming years will be part of understanding that relationship.

Two expressions of 2023

The 2023 Waitaki Pinot Noir continued the fresh, herbal and rosy character, with fruit recalling red cherry compote. There was a familiar connection in its perfume, expressed with freshness and charm.

EOS 2023 took a slightly smokier direction. It remained fresh, precise and very elegant, with tannins beginning to feel finely powdery. That combination of aromatic detail and texture was what stayed with me most.

Caroline’s and EOS 2024

With both Caroline’s and EOS 2024, what struck me was the balance. The acidity felt softer within the wines, accompanied by a beautiful, delicate richness. Deep violet perfume, fresh tobacco and wild strawberry were joined by a spring-sap freshness.

There was real intensity, yet both wines retained an elegance that made the richness feel beautifully measured. To my palate, the ripeness felt just right.

Tasting across these years has made me more curious about what is still to come. The older bottles reveal qualities that were less apparent in youth; the younger wines offer their own possibilities. I look forward to returning to the 2024s and discovering how that violet perfume, freshness and delicate richness unfold with time.